Khulna Division · Bangladesh

Jhenaidah

Sultanate mosques, Naldanga temples and the giant banyan of Kaliganj

Jhenaidah is a farming district on the Dhaka–Khulna highway, known for the fifteenth-century mosque city at Barobazar, the Naldanga temples, a vast banyan tree at Bethuli, and as the birthplace of Bir Sreshtho Hamidur Rahman.

Area
1,965 km²
Population (2022)
2,005,849
Upazilas
6
Unions
67
District since
1984
Literacy
72.8%
Ornate white temple with a red spire at the Naldanga temple complex, framed by an old brick wall
Naldanga temple complex, Kaliganj Photo: Sagor Bosu · CC BY-SA 4.0

About Jhenaidah

Jhenaidah lies in the north-west of Khulna division, with Kushtia to the north, Magura to the east, Jashore to the south, and Chuadanga and the Indian border to the west. The Gorai, Kumar, Nabaganga, Chitra, Bhairab and Kobadak rivers cross a flat, fertile plain dotted with beels and old oxbow lakes known locally as baors.

The district town sits where the Dhaka–Khulna highway meets the road north to Kushtia, and Jhenaidah has long been a crossroads for the south-west. Its six upazilas — Jhenaidah Sadar, Harinakunda, Kaliganj, Kotchandpur, Maheshpur and Shailkupa — are overwhelmingly rural, with rice, jute, sugarcane, bananas and betel leaf growing right up to the edge of the towns.

For visitors, Jhenaidah’s surprise is its heritage. Around Barobazar in Kaliganj, excavations have uncovered a cluster of brick mosques from the Bengal Sultanate, while nearby Naldanga has a group of Hindu temples built by a local royal family, and the great banyan of Bethuli spreads over a whole village plot.

History

A popular explanation of the name joins jhinuk, the freshwater pearl oyster once gathered here, with daha, a deep pool. Barobazar, on the old course of the Bhairab, was an important town in the fifteenth century and is associated with the legend of Gazi, Kalu and Champavati, a story still sung in rural ballads. The Naldanga Raj family later built temples at their seat in Kaliganj. Jhenaidah became a subdivision of Jashore in 1862 and a district in 1984.

During the Liberation War the district saw fierce fighting at Bishaykhali and elsewhere along the highway. Bir Sreshtho Hamidur Rahman, one of seven recipients of the country’s highest gallantry award, was born at Khordo Khalishpur in Maheshpur. The poet Golam Mostafa came from Shailkupa, and Harishpur in Harinakunda is one of the places claimed as the birthplace of the mystic singer Lalon.

Red-brick Galakata Mosque with low domes and terracotta niches at Barobazar
Galakata Mosque, Barobazar Photo: Kazi Rashed Abdallah · CC BY-SA 4.0

Economy and livelihoods

About two-thirds of household income comes from farming. Paddy, jute, sugarcane, bananas, betel leaf, vegetables and date-palm gur are the main products, and Kaliganj and Maheshpur also grow flowers on a commercial scale like neighbouring Jashore. The Mobarakganj sugar mill in Kaliganj buys cane from local farmers. Large baors such as Baluhar in Kotchandpur are managed for fish culture, and Kotchandpur was once a busy centre of the sugar trade. Trade along the highway, transport and remittances from family members working abroad support many households.

Food, culture and festivals

Jhenaidah shares the Baul tradition of Kushtia, and village fairs bring folk songs, jatra and the ballads of Gazi-Kalu. Winter is gur season, with fresh date juice and pitha in every village, while summer brings mangoes and lychees from homestead gardens.

Mosques, temples and shrines sit close together here, and both Durga Puja in Naldanga and the annual gatherings at Barobazar’s shrines draw crowds from across the region.

Places to visit in Jhenaidah

  1. Barobazar mosque city

    In Kaliganj upazila, a cluster of fifteenth-century brick mosques excavated since the 1990s, including the Galakata, Jor Bangla and Gorar mosques. Many have terracotta decoration and stand beside large old ponds.

  2. Naldanga temple complex

    A group of temples near Kaliganj built by the Naldanga Raj family, with a tall-spired central temple and smaller shrines around a lawn. It is still a place of worship.

  3. Bethuli great banyan (Mallikpur banyan)

    Once promoted as the largest banyan tree in Asia, this huge tree near Bethuli village in Kaliganj spreads by aerial roots across several acres. Parts have been lost, but it remains an impressive sight.

  4. Shailkupa Shahi Mosque

    A many-domed pre-Mughal brick mosque in Shailkupa town, now renovated and in daily use, near the Kumar river.

  5. Miyar Dalan

    The ruined mansion of a nineteenth-century landlord on the bank of the Nabaganga just outside Jhenaidah town, with arched verandas and plaster ornament.

What Jhenaidah is famous for

How to get to Jhenaidah

Most travellers come by bus from Dhaka’s Gabtoli or Sayedabad terminals, crossing the Padma Bridge and following the highway through Faridpur and Magura; the trip takes roughly four to five hours. Jhenaidah town has no railway, but Mobarakganj and Kotchandpur stations in the south lie on the line between Jashore and Darshana. The nearest airport is Jashore, about an hour away by road.

Markets and haats

Barobazar
A highway market town in Kaliganj whose name recalls a cluster of twelve old bazaars. Today it trades in vegetables, bananas and everyday goods, and it is the base for visiting the mosque ruins.
Kaliganj Bazar
The commercial centre of Kaliganj upazila on the Dhaka–Khulna highway, where farm produce, sugarcane trade and wholesale goods meet.
Kotchandpur Bazar
An old trading town on the Kobadak that was once known for sugar; today its market deals in rice, vegetables and fish from the nearby baors.

Jhenaidah at a glance

Jhenaidah at a glance

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The fifteenth-century mosques of Barobazar, the Naldanga temples, the Bethuli great banyan, bananas and date gur, and as the birthplace of Bir Sreshtho Hamidur Rahman.

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More districts in Khulna Division

Sources and photo credits

Figures are from the sources below. Census figures are from the 2022 Population and Housing Census unless stated.