Dhaka Division · Bangladesh

Dhaka

The capital on the Buriganga: Mughal forts, muslin memories and a city that never pauses

Dhaka district holds the capital of Bangladesh and five fast-growing upazilas. Visit for Mughal Lalbagh Fort, the pink Ahsan Manzil, Old Dhaka food and the country's biggest wholesale markets.

Area
1,464 km²
Population (2022)
14,734,701
Upazilas
5
Unions
86
District since
1772
Literacy
84.9%
Aerial view of the pink Ahsan Manzil palace with its grand front staircase in Old Dhaka
Ahsan Manzil, Old Dhaka Photo: Shafiul Islam Shaikot · CC BY 4.0

About Dhaka

Dhaka district sits in the middle of Bangladesh and contains the national capital, governed by the Dhaka North and Dhaka South city corporations, together with five upazilas around it: Savar, Dhamrai, Keraniganj, Nawabganj and Dohar. It is the most densely populated district in the country, with roughly 14.7 million people counted in the 2022 census on less than 1,500 square kilometres, and about three in four of them living in urban areas.

The landscape is shaped by water. The Buriganga runs along the old city's southern edge, the Turag and Balu ring it to the west and east, and the Dhaleshwari, Ichamati and Kaliganga thread through the rural south-west before the Padma marks the boundary near Dohar. Low beels such as Belai and the wetlands of Nawabganj flood in the monsoon, which is why the city has spread north onto the higher red soil of the Madhupur tract around Savar and Uttara.

For a visitor, Dhaka is two places at once. Old Dhaka is a maze of lanes, Mughal and colonial monuments, rickshaws and specialist bazaars that have traded the same goods for centuries; the newer city to the north is a skyline of offices, universities, garment headquarters and shopping centres. Beyond the city limits, Savar and Dhamrai still have brickfields, paddy fields, temples and weavers' villages.

History

Settlement here is far older than the capital. Savar was a regional seat in the early medieval period, and the name Dhaka is widely linked to the Dhakeshwari temple said to date from the Sena era. The town grew into a real capital in 1608, when the Mughals made it the seat of Bengal and Islam Khan briefly named it Jahangirnagar. Under governors such as Shaista Khan it became famous for muslin so fine it was traded across Asia and Europe, and the Lalbagh Fort, Bara Katra and many mosques date from this time.

The British administrative district of Dhaka was created in 1772. The city lost status when Murshidabad and then Calcutta rose, briefly became capital of Eastern Bengal and Assam after the 1905 partition, and in 1947 became the capital of East Bengal. The language movement of 1952, the 7 March 1971 speech at the Race Course ground (now Suhrawardy Udyan) and the surrender of the Pakistani army on 16 December 1971 all happened here, and Dhaka has been the capital of independent Bangladesh since then.

Top-down aerial view of Lalbagh Fort gardens surrounded by dense Old Dhaka buildings
Lalbagh Fort from above Photo: Pinu Rahman · CC BY-SA 4.0

Economy and livelihoods

Dhaka is the commercial and financial centre of the country. Head offices of banks, telecom operators and garment exporters cluster in Motijheel, Gulshan, Banani and Tejgaon, and the Dhaka Export Processing Zone at Savar and the garment belt along the Dhaka-Aricha highway employ hundreds of thousands of workers, most of them women. Old Dhaka remains the wholesale engine of the nation: Islampur for fabric, Chawkbazar for cosmetics, toys and packaging, Babubazar for groceries and Moulvibazar for spices. Outside the city, Savar and Dhamrai run dairy farms, brickfields and vegetable plots, Keraniganj has a huge ready-made garment cluster for the domestic market, and Dhamrai's metalworkers still cast brass and bell metal by the lost-wax method.

Food, culture and festivals

Old Dhaka has its own dialect, the Dhakaiya speech of the original "Dhakaiya" families, and its own food: kacchi biryani, morog polao, bakarkhani flatbread baked in clay ovens, and the famous Ramadan iftar market at Chawkbazar. Shakrain, the kite festival at the end of Poush, fills Old Dhaka's rooftops every January, and Pahela Baishakh begins with the Mangal Shobhajatra procession from the Faculty of Fine Arts at Dhaka University.

Religious life is diverse. Dhaka is called the city of mosques, Dhakeshwari is the national temple, Armenian and Catholic churches survive in Armanitola and Tejgaon, and the Rath Yatra of Dhamrai, with its towering wooden chariot, is one of the oldest chariot festivals in the country. Shankhari Bazar is still where conch-shell bangles are carved and sold.

Places to visit in Dhaka

  1. Lalbagh Fort

    An unfinished Mughal fort begun in 1678 by Prince Muhammad Azam and continued by Shaista Khan, in the south-west of Old Dhaka. Inside its walled gardens are the tomb of Pari Bibi, a three-domed mosque and the governor's audience hall and bath. Go early in the morning, when the gardens are quiet.

  2. Ahsan Manzil

    The pink palace of the Nawabs of Dhaka on the bank of the Buriganga at Kumartuli, completed in the 1870s and now a museum. Its restored rooms show the family's furniture, portraits and the grand ballroom and durbar hall.

  3. Star Mosque (Tara Masjid)

    A small mosque in Armanitola whose walls and domes are covered in mosaic of broken Chinese and Japanese porcelain, with blue stars as the main motif. It is a short walk from Ahsan Manzil and easy to combine with it.

  4. National Parliament House

    Louis Kahn's monumental concrete and marble Jatiya Sangsad Bhaban at Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, surrounded by an artificial lake and lawns. Even from outside, its geometry is one of the great sights of modern architecture.

  5. National Martyrs' Memorial, Savar

    The seven-peaked Jatiyo Smriti Soudho at Savar, about 35 km north-west of the city, honours those killed in the 1971 Liberation War. Its landscaped grounds and mass graves draw large crowds on 26 March and 16 December.

  6. Dhakeshwari Temple

    Regarded as the national temple of Bangladesh and associated with the city's name. The compound off Lalbagh is busiest during Durga Puja, when it is the focus of the capital's celebrations.

What Dhaka is famous for

How to get to Dhaka

Most journeys in Bangladesh begin or end in Dhaka. Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport at Kurmitola handles international and domestic flights. Trains arrive at Kamalapur and Airport stations, and the Padma Bridge line now links the city to the south-west. Long-distance buses use Gabtoli and the newer terminals for the north and west, Sayedabad for the south and east, and Mohakhali for the north-east, while river launches to Barishal and the coast leave from Sadarghat on the Buriganga. Inside the city, the MRT Line 6 metro between Uttara and Motijheel is the quickest way to cross town; allow plenty of time for road traffic otherwise.

Markets and haats

Islampur and Chawkbazar
Old Dhaka's wholesale heart: Islampur for saree, three-piece and shirting fabric by the bale, Chawkbazar for cosmetics, toys, plastics and packaging. Many sellers across the country stock up here.
Karwan Bazar
The capital's main wholesale produce market, busiest before dawn, when trucks unload vegetables, fruit, fish and eggs from every part of the country.
Dhaka New Market and Gausia
A 1950s market near Nilkhet and its neighbours, known for clothes, fabric, shoes, kitchenware and the book stalls of Nilkhet across the road. Bargaining is expected.
Mirpur Benarasi Palli
A neighbourhood of weavers and shops in Mirpur selling Benarasi, katan and jamdani saree directly from looms and showrooms, especially busy before Eid and weddings.

Dhaka at a glance

Dhaka at a glance

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Questions about Dhaka

Mughal monuments such as Lalbagh Fort, the Ahsan Manzil palace, its historic muslin and today's Benarasi and jamdani saree, Old Dhaka food like kacchi biryani and bakarkhani, and its huge wholesale markets.

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More districts in Dhaka Division

Sources and photo credits

Figures are from the sources below. Census figures are from the 2022 Population and Housing Census unless stated.