Manipuri saree and shawl (Sylhet)

The story

The Manipuri people of Bangladesh trace their roots to the kingdom of Manipur, to the north-east of Sylhet. Families are said to have settled in greater Sylhet over the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, many fleeing wars in their homeland, and they brought with them a culture of dance, music and weaving. Today they live mainly in Moulvibazar, Sylhet, Habiganj and Sunamganj, and the largest concentration of weaving households is in Kamalganj upazila, around Adampur and neighbouring villages, with Sreemangal and Madhabpur also known for it.

Weaving has traditionally been women's work in Manipuri homes. Two kinds of loom are still used. The loin loom, a back-strap loom tied at one end to a post and at the other to the weaver's waist, is used for narrow cloth such as shawls, mufflers and the woven bands of the phanek (wrap skirt). Wider pieces, including sarees, bedcovers and three-pieces, are woven on a throw-shuttle frame loom. The best-known saree design has a stepped "temple" border, and patterns are bold, geometric and brightly coloured. In Sylhet city, shops in Lamabazar have long sold Manipuri weaving to visitors.

Bangladesh registered the Sylhet Manipuri saree as a geographical indication, with the certificate handed over in April 2025. The industry remains small and home-based: most yarn is bought in, weavers usually sell to wholesalers, and earnings are modest.

How to spot the real Manipuri saree and shawl (Sylhet)

A hand-woven Manipuri saree is light and slightly loose in weave, and because the patterns are woven in rather than printed or embroidered, the design shows on both sides; many pieces can be worn either way out. Look for the stepped temple border, small irregularities in the motifs, and a selvedge that is not perfectly straight. Loin-loom shawls are narrow, with the pattern running in bands and a fringe at the ends. Printed imitations show the design on one side only, and power-loom versions have identical motifs, a stiff hand and long thread floats on the back.

Buying tips

Price depends on fibre (cotton, cotton-silk or acrylic for winter shawls), the density of patterning, and whether the piece was woven on a loin loom or a frame loom. Ask the seller who wove it and where, ideally the village, and for photos of both sides. Sellers who work directly with Kamalganj or Sylhet weavers can usually tell you this. Colours on cotton pieces may bleed at first, so ask whether the yarn is colour-fast.

Midmart lists independent shops, and each one charges its own delivery: a saree and a shawl from two different shops will cost two delivery charges. Midmart does not take your money or ship the parcel; the seller agrees payment and delivery with you directly. Check the seller's exchange policy before paying.

Keeping it fresh

Hand-wash cotton Manipuri pieces separately in cold water with a mild detergent, at least for the first few washes, and do not soak them. Dry in the shade and iron on medium heat. Shawls of wool or acrylic should be washed gently and dried flat so they do not stretch. Store folded in a cotton wrap in a dry cupboard; Sylhet's humid monsoon encourages mildew, so air the pieces every few weeks. Keep naphthalene wrapped in paper and away from the cloth.

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